Tag Archives: Mexico City

Foto Inter/Cambio Recap

This is long long long overdue, but better late than never. Especially since we are in the throes of planning the next iteration which will be in March of 2025!

Over three days we had five seminars, two photo walks, a Day of the Dead environmental portrait shoot, two hands-on demos, and opening and closing keynote speeches, plus an exhibition of alternative process work at the Museo Archivo De La Fotografía, Mexico City’s official photography archive. Images displayed in the exhibit ranged from salted paper prints made with wet collodion negatives to daguerreotypes of Mexico City to palladium prints to a fine press book with hand-tipped prints. A lot of images were made, and new friendships formed.

I want to first offer my sincerest gratitude to Gabriel Barajas, my business partner in this venture, without whose initial inquiry back in 2018 this would never have happened. He invested a massive amount of energy and time into making this happen here. I also want to thank all the people of the Club Fotografico Centro Historico who helped pull this off- their volunteer efforts from manning the reception desk to shooting video footage to getting us bottled water made the whole thing run. I especially want to call out Veronica Mondragón for her tireless logistics management.

Gabriel Barajas
Mary Quin with Veronica Mondragón
Juio Galindo

Another thank you goes to all the staff at the Museo Archivo De La Fotografía for their support. They provided us with a venue for our keynote events, and they expanded their offering of gallery space to turn what would have been a modest three-day pop-up show into a major, meaningful exhibition taking over an entire floor of the museum and running for two weeks. They also made me feel like a rock star – I got asked to participate in the ribbon-cutting to open the show, and received a certificate of recognition from the Secretary of Culture for Mexico City for my efforts. They’re also inviting me back to give a platinum/palladium printing workshop some time next year, and a show of my portrait and figure work.

Some photos from the opening night reception at the Museo Archivo de la Fotografia, including the lifetime achievement award being presented to my friend Julio Galindo. As you can see from the last couple of images, we had a standing-room-only crowd. It was quite the evening, and I will never forget it.

I don’t know of a bigger thrill for an artist than to have the director of a museum request you to give them a portfolio review, and then turn around and offer you a show and a workshop (funded by the museum!).

We had three days of activities and presentations. There were two main themes to the conference this year: Daguerreotypes and Book Arts. Carlos Gabriel Vertanessian, an Argentinian photo historian, gave a talk about the history of early photography in Mexico, focusing on the beginnings of the Daguerreotype in Mexico. Takashi Arai and Paty Banda gave a joint presentation (perhaps the most technically challenging presentation to pull off; Takashi was in Japan and calling in at 4AM his time, while Paty was also calling in from another location in Mexico City). They are both 21st century Daguerreotypists and talked about their personal work – Takashi with his interest in nuclear and environmental issues, and Paty with her rephotographic project doing 21st century daguerreotypes that re-created the earliest known photographs of Mexico City.

Matthew Magruder presented his work that spans multiple photographic disciplines; the work he presented centered on book arts and the handmade artists book. Craig Alan Huber (another person to whom I owe a great debt of thanks for his assistance in making this conference happen) gave a contrasting presentation on publishing fine art books, from “trade press” to the extremely limited edition fine-art volumes (usually cased in presentation boxes and accompanied by signed prints, etc). Craig is the owner and publisher of Veritas Editions, an award-winning press that specializes in high-end limited edition books.

We also had presentations by Mary Quin and Arturo Talavera. Mary is an innovative artist from Alabama who began her photographic career working with large format cameras making traditional photographic images and has evolved into making “intuitive” images where she paints and drips photo chemistry onto paper to create images. Mary also gave a hands-on demo to the attendees of her technique. Arturo is a photographer from Mexico City and a master of multiple historic photo processes. Arturo hosted us for a morning in his studio where he demonstrated making a copper-plate photogravure image of the Aztec “Sun Stone” housed in the Anthropology Museum; his original plate from which he created the gravure was a whole plate size Daguerreotype!

Our closing night keynote was presented at the Museo Archivo de la Fotografia by Mark and France Scully Osterman, who talked about 19th century spirit photography, an especially timely topic as we were on the cusp of the Day of the Dead weekend in Mexico City. Another resounding success, with a standing room only crowd, Mark and France talked about the origins of spirit photography in the middle 19th century, with the aftermath of the US Civil War being a significant driver of the interest in spiritualism that encouraged the practice. They also talked about the HOW it was done, with techniques ranging from simple long exposures that rendered moving figures in the image as ghostly presences, to advanced methods for manipulation and trickery to give the impression of spiritual manifestations. The evening closed out on the roof of the museum overlooking the Metropolitan Cathedral and the ruins of the Templo Mayor and some celebratory wine was shared by all. The first image is of the wonderful young man who did the live translation for Mark and France’s talk; he did an outstanding job!

All work and no play makes for a dull conference, so we had several photo walks arranged; a daytime trek through the Mercado de San Juan which specializes in exotic cuisine (they have everything from whole turkeys to cockroaches to alligator meat!), a visit to Mexico City’s Chinatown, a nighttime photo walk in the Centro Historico around the Zocalo, and a large format portrait shoot with a model in Day of the Dead makeup and costume (another big thanks to our model and his makeup artist – Rafa Farias and Annie Hernandez).

Rafa and Annie getting ready for his shoot, and a few views of the finished results (that’s me with the 5×7 view camera in the last shot):

After the official end of the conference, a bunch of us took the day to go down to Coyoacán and wander around. Lots of Day of the Dead decorations were on display, and a good time was had by all. We grabbed lunch at an outdoor table at Restaurante Ave Maria, who was having a mole festival on the menu – I had a Oaxacan mole over beef which was very rich and delicious. We were serenaded by several strolling musicians – one an older gentleman with a guitar doing traditional Mexican songs, and then a group of young Mexican boys rapping. While their music wasn’t to my taste, they got big props for freestyle ad-libbing a rhyme about the gringo with the camera! I’m still building my street photography skills, especially when it comes to photographing people. As we were heading back to the Metro, I saw this guy with the most incredible style and makeup, and had to take the chance to ask him for a photo. You’ll see the results – he had half his face painted with the calavera, and the other unpainted, and he was decked out in what would certainly qualify as vintage Punk style – he would have fit right in on Kings Road in London in 1983.

Some more Day of the Dead sights:

Palacio De Bellas Artes, Mexico City

PalacioBellasArtesSol

The last time I wanted to photograph the Palace of Fine Arts, the weather was not so accommodating and the skies were hazy and smoggy every day. This trip, the weather cooperated and you can see the glory that is the Palacio. The domes of the Palacio are so iconic a symbol of Mexico City, they’re even on the Starbucks mug! Next time I’m back, I’ll have to go in the Sears across the street and see if I can get a good shot out one of the third or fourth floor windows.

The interior is every bit as spectacular – The entrance lobby is a glory of Deco Mexicano – very much Art Deco, but with a distinct Mexican cultural twist – you can feel the stirrings of pride in indigenous Mexican heritage that were finding expression in stylized Aztec and Mayan motifs and the murals of Diego Rivera, David Alfaro Siquieros and Jose Orozco that adorn the walls of the lobby.

BellasArtesDomeInteriorUp

I feel lucky to have pulled off this shot, as I had to point the camera straight up, and hold it still for 1/15th of a second (I think it was a 1/15h, might have been 1/8th). No small feat when your camera is as big and heavy a brick as my Mamiya RZ67. I must say it has an extremely well-damped mirror that doesn’t cause camera shake – while it isn’t quite as smooth as my Rolleiflex, which has no mirror movement at all, I can hand-hold it down to 1/15th or 1/8th regularly (the Rollei I feel pretty confident to 1/4 second, and have been known to pull off 1 second exposures hand held).

Mexico City – Around San Angel, In Color

SanAngelMudanzas
San Angel Moving, Local and Long-Distance

I think this was a newsstand kiosk, but it’s painted to advertise San Angel Moving, in a very old-school style. One of their trucks was parked right next to it.

YellowHouse
Yellow Cafe, San Angel

I couldn’t help but photograph this bright yellow cafe/restaurant – what a cool building!

WildBrickHouse
Dance School, San Angel

Another building that cried out to be photographed – if it were stone and not brick, I would assume this was in Spain or Italy, not Mexico. It has a dance school inside, as well as a residence. Who knows how old it is?

CalleSanAngelUphill
Walking uphill, San Angel

A typical street in San Angel – those cobblestones could go all the way back to the 17th century. The neighborhood, today, is one of the most upscale in Mexico City, with many of the Viceregal compounds and ex-convents/monasteries converted into extremely private residences de luxe.

CuarentaYSeis
Number 46, Calle de la Amargura

 

BarbershopSanAngel
Barber Shop, San Angel

I just loved the old-school barbershop interior and the “Abierto, Pase Ud” (Open, Please Come In” sign on the door. It reminded me of the barbershops in the town I grew up in.

FountainSanAngelArtPark
Fountain, Plaza San Jacinto

The last time I was in Mexico City, this fountain wasn’t running. So nice to see it operating – it really brings the plaza together and makes it feel more alive, even when the  Saturday artists’ market isn’t running.

Victor – Portraits

Part of the reason for my trip to Mexico City was to see Victor. It’s a developing thing – we haven’t placed a label on it but whatever it is, it’s good. And he’s a willing subject for the camera, which is a nice change of pace from my ex.

VictorAtUNAM1

It was also an opportunity to test out the portrait lens on my Mamiya RZ67 (the camera is new to me, but the lens’ quality is known far and wide – I just needed to see for myself what it would do and if I liked it. I do).

We spent an afternoon wandering around the UNAM (National Autonomous University of Mexico) campus when I shot these.

VictorUNAM2

VictorUNAM3

This last one was taken with the 110mm f2.8 lens. It’s an equally good lens for portraits when you need something that gives a bit more background and/or a closer working distance, like this shot.

VictorZonaRosa

All images made on Kodak Tri-X 400. I really like Tri-X for the tonality it has, and the just-a-little-bit of tooth.

VictorUNAMDerechos

This very last image was made with the 50mm lens as an example of environmental portraiture. The film was Kodak Ektar 100, which I love for the color saturation and sharpness.

Mexico City, in Black and White

This was a return trip, just a quick three-day weekend over the Veterans’ Day holiday, so I only shot four rolls of black-and-white and six rolls of color (to be processed today). Here are some highlights.

I took a trip to the UNAM (Autonomous National University of Mexico) campus, which is famous for its 1960s architecture (it’s the site of the 1968 Olympics, and the Olympic stadium which seats some 80,000 (if I recall correctly) is across Insurgentes Boulevard from the campus). My partner is in law school at UNAM, so we met up after class and wandered around a bit. These images are from the Architecture school buildings, another program that UNAM is famous for.

UNAMArchitectureStairs

AngelUNAMArchitecture

You may be wondering- what’s with the rectangular images? He almost always shows us square photos! Well, I traded in some gear I wasn’t using and got a Mamiya RZ67 and a trio of lenses for it. The RZ67 is effectively a Hasselblad on steroids – unlike my Rolleiflex, which is a TLR (Twin Lens Reflex), the RZ is an SLR (Single Lens Reflex). The advantage is that with an SLR, interchangeable lenses make a lot more sense, since you only have to have one of them per focal length. The RZ also shoots 6x7cm negatives on 120 film (NOT 120mm!!! Pet Peeve alert – 120 is the film size, not 120mm. 120 was a Kodak internal designation for the format that became universal, kind of like Kleenex). The RZ solves the problem of having to rotate the entire camera when switching from horizontal to vertical by instituting rotating backs. This of course makes the camera bigger and heavier. It’s an additional challenge when traveling, but I think the images speak for themselves.

Back in the city center, I was wandering around on the street where my hotel is located, Calle Londres. Down the block are a pair of markets – the Mercado del Angel, which specializes in antiques, and the Mercado de Artesanias which specializes in modern handicrafts of all varieties from wood carvings to ceramics to sterling silver jewelry. The Mercado de Artesanias had a Day of the Dead altar still up in their entryway.

DiaDeLosMuertosAltar

DiaDeLosMuertosAltar2

You can’t tell it in black and white, but those pumpkins on the ground were fluorescent purple and pink. I like them better in b/w, don’t you?
BronzeDoorsLondres

Also on Calle Londres, these bronze doors can be found. I’m still not sure what they belong to, but they’re quite impressive.

 

GaleanaMonument

Another aspect of the trip was to take in some of the exhibits of FotoMexico, a nation-wide, three month long photography festival that covers some 600 exhibits around the nation. The headquarters for the program is the Centro de la Imagén, located inside the Biblioteca México (I’ll have more to say about FotoMexico in another post). The Biblioteca México is located in an 18th century tobacco factory-cum-military facility that was used as a prison during the waning days of Spanish colonial rule. This monument is in the park in front of the Biblioteca, commemorating Jose Maria Morelos, a Mexican general who led a valiant 40 day resistance against colonial authorities at Cuautla, after which he was taken prisoner, held in the jail in the Ciutadela (now the Biblioteca) and then executed for treason.
ParkSweepMexicoCity

The cart and broom of one of the caretakers of the park.
MorelosMonument2

Another view of the Morelos monument. It was erected in 1912, as part of the centenary commemorations of Mexican independence from Spain, and coincidentally the Mexican Revolution of 1911 which overthrew the dictatorship of Porfirio Diaz.
GlorietaInsurgentes

Last but not least, the advertising billboard structure in the Glorieta Insurgentes. The Glorieta is a major traffic circle on Avenida Insurgentes Norte, and is a transportation hub – the subway and express buses have stops in and around the Glorieta. I photographed the billboard structure because it has a look to it reminiscent of a Bernd and Hilla Becher photograph of industrial structures.

Mexico City part 2 – people at work

More from Mexico City – people at work.

Throughout the Centro Historico, there are organ grinders playing their portable instruments, hat in hand for tips. A five peso coin is sufficient a tip if you enjoy their music. I gave this man a 10 peso coin for photographing him.

Organ Grinder, Calle Madero
Organ Grinder, Calle Madero

At the Templo Mayor museum, this guy was washing the windows, dangling from the roof basically on a couple of ropes.

Window Washer, Templo Mayor Museum
Window Washer, Templo Mayor Museum

Mexico City is a very musical city, if you give it a chance. It has a definite rhythm, and part of that is the sounds. The organ grinders are out, cranking away, and on seemingly every street corner, there’s someone intoning the litany of what they have for sale. This lady was outside the taquería next door to my hotel every day, pretty much all day, reciting the kinds of tacos they had and extolling their best quality. I never heard her voice waiver or decrease in volume.

Taco Lady
Taco Lady

All around the Zocalo, and at various spots through the Centro Historico, there are these shoe-shine booths. While the canopies shade the patrons pretty well, the shoe-shine men (and women) are out there in the sun and the heat all day.

Shoe Shine Booths, Zocalo
Shoe Shine Booths, Zocalo

Another part of the daily rhythm of Mexico City – people hauling stuff on carts.This guy is pulling a load of plastic baskets, but this is a pretty small load compared to some I saw.

Hauling Baskets
Hauling Baskets

Outside the Catedral Metropolitana, skilled day laborers set up soliciting work. Here are two plumbers specializing in gas, an electrician, and a plasterer/house painter.

Day Laborers, Cathedral Metropolitana
Day Laborers, Cathedral Metropolitana

My first full day in Mexico City, I got up early and walked around through the Centro Historico and got to see the city as it was waking up. Here was a street food stall set up on a pedestrian passageway cooking breakfast for the businessmen and shopkeepers in the neighborhood.

Cooking Street Food
Cooking Street Food

Across from the cook was the lime juicer making fresh limeade.

Juicing Limes
Juicing Limes

This is my tour guide who led us up through the bell towers at the Catedral Metropolitana. The cathedral is the largest Catholic cathedral in the Americas.

Cathedral Bell Tower Tourguide
Cathedral Bell Tower Tourguide

These dancers in traditional Aztec/Mexica costumes could be found most days performing on the plaza beside the Catedral Metropolitana. Here they were sheltering from a light rain in front of the Hotel Ritz (which is, unlike its namesake in Paris, a budget hotel) after a performance.

Aztec Dancers, Hotel Ritz
Aztec Dancers, Hotel Ritz

In the park area across from the entrance to the Anthropology Museum these traditional dancers were performing. At the top of the pole is a musician playing a traditional flute. The dancers are suspended by ropes at the ankles, and spin around to extend the ropes and lower themselves from the top.

Dancers, Chapultepec
Dancers, Chapultepec

Mexico City – part 1 – People out and about

For the Memorial Day holiday weekend, I took a short vacation down to Mexico City. I wanted to do an art-themed vacation, taking in museums and popular art and crafts, to get some inspiration for my own work. And of course, to take images of my own. For this trip I decided to take my new Fuji X-T1 and a couple lenses because it was much more compact and less conspicuous than the Rolleiflex. It proved a baptism by fire for me with the camera, as I was shooting with it 10 hours a day every day for five days. This generally is a good thing, and I’ll write up my impressions in a separate post.

One of the first things I noticed about Mexico City is that it is a very young city – you can tell the population skews much more toward 20 than toward 60. There are young people everywhere, wandering the streets of the Centro Historico, visiting the museums, riding the subway. I spotted these two young lovers on the plaza in front of the Palacio de Bellas Artes. You saw many young couples like these two holding hands and being publicly expressive. This was a bit of a surprise to me as my last impression of Mexico City was 30+ years ago when it was a much more conservative, much more Catholic place, and this kind of public display between unmarried youth would have been frowned upon.

Young Love, Calle Madero
Young Love, Calle Madero

Further signs of change in Mexico City – young gay couples holding hands in public. These two were touring the Casa Studio Diego Rivera with me, and I caught them in an unguarded moment on the roof of the studio. I should have taken their portraits too, but I did photograph them together with their cellphone as they were trying to do selfies with not much success. They were very cute and sweet.

Gay Couple, Casa Diego Rivera
Gay Couple, Casa Diego Rivera

I also saw several other young gay couples out on the street holding hands in the Centro Historico, which surprised me a little as I was not expecting it there.

On another early Sunday morning, I took a walk through the Alameda park, which was just up the block from my hotel. This boy and his dad were out to go roller skating in the park. I loved his punked-out helmet with the spiky mohawk.

Rollerblade Chico
Rollerblade Chico

In a passageway between Calle Madero and Calle Tacuba, just behind the Banco de Mexico, there’s this big bronze bird bench (try saying that five times fast!). I spotted this lady taking a rest, smoking and playing on her phone. As is typical everywhere now, people of all ages are glued to their phones.

Lady, Bird Bench
Lady, Bird Bench

A handsome young man on his phone, outside Chapultepec Park. Hot travel tip for anyone planning to visit Mexico City – the entire city seems to roll up the sidewalks and shut down on Mondays, at least as far as attractions go – there’s maybe one museum open. They even lock up the gates to Chapultepec park and only allow bicyclists who are transiting through to enter!

Boy On Phone, Chapultepec
Boy On Phone, Chapultepec

I went out for an early morning walk my first full day in Mexico City, to see what the rhythms of life are like. This man presented a dramatic composition in the morning sunlight as he leaned up against the wall.

Man On Phone
Man On Phone

Boy in Toreador Suit, Mexico City, August 20, 1949

Boy in Toreador Suit, Mexico City, 1949
Boy in Toreador Suit, Mexico City, 1949

Photographer's imprint, verso, Boy in Toreador Suit
Photographer’s imprint, verso, Boy in Toreador Suit

Here’s a cute photo of a teenage boy in a toreador suit, taken in Mexico City, August 20, 1949. The photographer’s stamp on the back of the print specifies the exact date, which is inordinately helpful. I just wish I could read his name, though – the script on the front AND the typeface used for his name on the back makes it impossible for me to decipher the exact spelling of his last name. Translation of the stamp:

Carlos **unza
A Photographer Whom You Can Recommend
Bolivar 57, Tel: 12.38.84
Mexico, D.F.
20 August 1949

I don’t know that this boy would actually have been a toreador – he could well have been playing dress-up for the camera. But I’ll give him the benefit of the doubt and say he’s legit. Google Mapping the studio address, in all likelihood this was a very posh studio in the center of Mexico City, not far from the historic district (I found THREE addresses with the same street number around the city, but the street views of the other two showed nothing that looked like commercial enterprise ever happening there). If anyone out there in cyberland knows who this photographer was, I’d greatly appreciate letting me know the exact spelling of his name and any biographical data about him. Ditto for the identity of the subject – if he was in fact a toreador, someone out there somewhere knows who he is.

I cropped out some of the card the image is mounted on because it would be wasting space on the screen to show nothing of value, and left enough to show the texture and pattern of the card decoration. It’s truly a vintage piece of the period. The stamp I converted to black and white so I could tweak the contrast in Photoshop and make it easier to read.

Footnote:

Aah- the wonders of google. I was trying to figure out the photographers name, and did some google searching, and came up with Carlos Ysunza as a name. Additionally, there is a currently practicing commercial photographer in Mexico City by that same name. I’ll email him and find out if he is the son of the Carlos who took this photo.