Category Archives: Travel

The coolest thing I ever got on vacation (and no, I don’t mean giardia)

I’ve been a lot of places (Argentina, Belize, Uruguay, Canada, Mexico, Puerto Rico, England (3x), France, Netherlands, Belgium, Spain (4x), Italy (2x), Singapore, Cambodia and Thailand), and of all the souvenirs I’ve brought back, I think the Cambodian entry visa in my passport has to be the best of all of them. Everyone else just gives you a rubber ink stamp mark. The Cambodians take an entire page with this beautifully engraved visa sticker.

Cambodian Visa
Cambodian Visa

Is that not the coolest foreign travel souvenir you can think of?

Actually, to be entirely honest, the coolest thing I bring back from every trip are the memories of the places and the people. I had been forewarned about how Cambodia was (and probably still is outside of the ultra-luxury hotels) a largely cash economy. I arrived armed with five hundred US Dollars in cash. I was insufficiently forearmed with information at the time to know that A: the US Dollar is widely accepted and usually preferred over local currency, and B: the exchange rate is much better at the exchange booths in town rather than the airport, if you must in fact exchange currency. So, when I arrived at the airport in Siem Reap (the city amidst the ruins of Angkor), I went to the foreign exchange cart (yes, a cart, wheeled outside on the curb in good weather) to get fifty or so dollars changed into riel. In all the hubbub (trying to keep an eye on my luggage, watch for my driver, and then pay attention to the currency exchange, I was a dingbat and left the pouch where I had all my money on the counter on top of the cart. I didn’t realize I had done this until I was checked in to my hotel and my driver had gone. To compensate, I went to the local bank, got a cash advance from my credit card, and carried on (the cash advance is another story altogether). My last day in Cambodia, my guide said, “you’ve got almost two hours before your flight leaves. Go ask the airport lost & found office if they have your money. What have you got to lose?” So I went to the lost and found after checking my luggage. The lost and found guy started giving me the third degree – what color was the envelope? were there any markings on it? Was it in a pouch? The currency exchange booth guys saw it left on the counter, and turned it in. It was locked up in the airport director’s safe. I had expected to never see it again, as that $500 represented at the time two years pay for the average Cambodian. I feel certain that had I made the same mistake in New York, even at a high-class hotel, the envelope would just have disappeared with nary a trace. The guys at the exchange cart were so scrupulously honest that they never even looked in the envelope to see what was there, they just turned it in. Gives you renewed faith in humanity to know that people for whom that kind of money would have made such a HUGE difference were honest enough to turn down the opportunity to take advantage of it.

New York Pride – belatedly

I’m really remiss in posting these, as it’s been three weeks almost since NY Pride. I didn’t post much because I really didn’t shoot much, and only took a cursory glance at the parade because I was tired and ready to go home, what with the bone chip in my right ankle acting up. But here’s a few goodies to sate someone’s curiosity. Unlike DC Pride, I shot these on film (I wanna say Kodak Ektar 100) with my new-to-me Contax RTS III and the 50mm f1.4 Planar lens. It’s not a bad combo for ‘street’ shooting, especially at an event where everyone is some kind of exhibitionist and WANTS to be seen/photographed.

Wearing your Pride, NY Pride 2012
Wearing your Pride, NY Pride 2012
Could it be... Elvira?
Could it be… Elvira?
Girl with a fancy hat, NY Pride 2012
Girl with a fancy hat, NY Pride 2012
Through the Cafe Window, NY Pride 2012
Through the Cafe Window, NY Pride 2012
Red Shirt, NY Pride 2012
Red Shirt, NY Pride 2012
Asian guy with rainbow boa, NY Pride 2012
Asian guy with rainbow boa, NY Pride 2012
Empire State Pride, NY 2012
Empire State Pride, NY 2012

Talk about exhibitionists… someone who really doesn’t care πŸ™‚

The "dick-tater", NY Pride 2012
The “dick-tater”, NY Pride 2012

And a couple of generic New York photos, to help clean your brain after seeing that last one…

The Flatiron Building
The Flatiron Building
NY Harbor - Brooklyn View, with Moon and Statue of Liberty
NY Harbor – Brooklyn View, with Moon and Statue of Liberty

Time for another one of those “where in the world has this blog been read from” posts

I’m always tickled to death to see where in the world people have been reading my blog from.Β  Here’s the latest stats. They’re fun to ponder – what do some of them mean? Myanmar has more visits than Japan? I now have a visitor from Albania, and two from Nepal. I’m slowly coloring in the world on the world map, which is very cool. I’m only missing a couple of Balkan countries (Bosnia and Macedonia) and Baltics (Estonia and Latvia I believe) to complete all of Europe. China is the big mystery to me – am I blogging about something that either is of no interest at all to the Chinese, or more likely, am I blogging about something that runs afoul of Chinese web filters? Or most likely, my blog doesn’t translate well into Chinese so nobody reads it there. I’m not surprised by Khazakhstan or Mongolia not having anyone reading my blog – there’s very little internet penetration into those two countries to begin with.

In addition to getting some Chinese readers, I’d really love to have someone in Svalbard read my blog – I think that would be super cool as it’s one of the least well known countries. Svalbard, New Guinea, Greenland, the Falkland islands, and Bolivia and Paraguay. So if you know someone in one of those places, or traveling to them, and who actually would be interested in this, please pass along the blog!

All Time

Country Views
United States FlagUnited States 5,137
United Kingdom FlagUnited Kingdom 295
Canada FlagCanada 276
Australia FlagAustralia 272
Spain FlagSpain 114
France FlagFrance 110
Italy FlagItaly 110
Germany FlagGermany 96
Mexico FlagMexico 60
Brazil FlagBrazil 59
Belgium FlagBelgium 58
Netherlands FlagNetherlands 51
India FlagIndia 40
Thailand FlagThailand 39
Philippines FlagPhilippines 38
Sweden FlagSweden 36
Poland FlagPoland 36
Russian Federation FlagRussian Federation 36
Austria FlagAustria 34
New Zealand FlagNew Zealand 32
Hungary FlagHungary 31
Cambodia FlagCambodia 30
Myanmar FlagMyanmar 29
Colombia FlagColombia 28
Slovenia FlagSlovenia 28
Ireland FlagIreland 27
Argentina FlagArgentina 26
Hong Kong FlagHong Kong 25
Singapore FlagSingapore 25
Romania FlagRomania 24
Malaysia FlagMalaysia 23
Indonesia FlagIndonesia 23
Viet Nam FlagViet Nam 17
Denmark FlagDenmark 17
Japan FlagJapan 17
Sudan FlagSudan 16
Lithuania FlagLithuania 15
Greece FlagGreece 14
Portugal FlagPortugal 14
Switzerland FlagSwitzerland 13
Czech Republic FlagCzech Republic 12
Iceland FlagIceland 12
Korea, Republic of FlagRepublic of Korea 12
Ukraine FlagUkraine 11
South Africa FlagSouth Africa 9
Luxembourg FlagLuxembourg 9
Pakistan FlagPakistan 8
Belarus FlagBelarus 7
United Arab Emirates FlagUnited Arab Emirates 7
Qatar FlagQatar 7
Israel FlagIsrael 7
Ecuador FlagEcuador 6
Moldova, Republic of FlagMoldova 6
Saudi Arabia FlagSaudi Arabia 5
Taiwan, Province of China FlagTaiwan 5
Bulgaria FlagBulgaria 5
Turkey FlagTurkey 5
Slovakia FlagSlovakia 5
Serbia FlagSerbia 4
Finland FlagFinland 4
Venezuela FlagVenezuela 4
Norway FlagNorway 4
Nigeria FlagNigeria 4
Syrian Arab Republic FlagSyrian Arab Republic 4
Panama FlagPanama 4
Peru FlagPeru 4
Morocco FlagMorocco 3
Malta FlagMalta 3
Azerbaijan FlagAzerbaijan 3
Puerto Rico FlagPuerto Rico 3
Nepal FlagNepal 2
Dominican Republic FlagDominican Republic 2
Uruguay FlagUruguay 2
Chile FlagChile 2
Egypt FlagEgypt 2
Bangladesh FlagBangladesh 2
Albania FlagAlbania 1
Cyprus FlagCyprus 1
Iraq FlagIraq 1
Gabon FlagGabon 1
Trinidad and Tobago FlagTrinidad and Tobago 1
Algeria FlagAlgeria 1
Sri Lanka FlagSri Lanka 1
Β 

Digital negatives in Palladium

Here is the first print in a series I’m working on. I’m going back through some negatives I made in 2004 with my Hasselblad on a trip to Spain. This shot is the cathedral in Salamanca, or more specifically, both cathedrals – the Romanesque and the Late Gothic/early Baroque, which oddly enough was built into the older cathedral instead of replacing it. I forget the reasoning off the top of my head. After I get a half-dozen or so printed, they will be going to a new gallery in Charlottesville, Virginia called Manu Propria, which specializes in handmade photography. The print is palladium, made on Bergger COT320 pre-treated with fumed silica.

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Thanksgiving Trip – Monticello, Montpelier and Meander Plantation, Virginia – Part 2

On the trip, we stayed at The Inn at Meander Plantation – an 18th century Virginia plantation house converted into a Bed & Breakfast inn. Their claim to fame in addition to the beautiful home is the food in their kitchen – they have outstanding dinner service (which you do not have to be a guest at the inn to partake of) consisting of locally grown produce and meats, using traditional regional recipes, paired with Virginia wines.

Dinner and breakfast are served in the manor house dining room. The current kitchen is housed in the ell behind the main house, and the original kitchen has been converted into a two-story suite. The original slave quarters are also converted into two guest rooms.

Meander Plantation House, and Kitchen Wing
Meander Plantation House, and Kitchen Wing
Front Porch, Meander Plantation
Front Porch, Meander Plantation

Kitchen Arcade, Meander Plantation
Kitchen Arcade, Meander Plantation


We had the two rooms in the former slave quarters. Now very cozy and charming, you could tell that these rooms were far more primitive inside than the main house rooms, but also by extension that these were luxurious in comparison to the general housing for slaves. These must have been the rooms for the families of the slaves who worked in the house, not only because of the quality of the construction but the proximity to the main house and kitchen (only a few yards removed from the kitchen building). The cooks would probably have lived in the room above the kitchen, and the maids/house-servants in this house.

Meander Plantation is very pet-friendly and dogs are allowed in the outbuilding guest rooms and suites. Mom and dad have this little mixed-breed terrier-esque dog named Tess who they bring with them whenever they travel, so we got the two adjoining rooms in the slave cottage to accommodate the dog. The plantation has a big golden retriever who is very friendly, and Tess would go play on the lawn with the Golden.

Slave Quarters, Meander Plantation
Slave Quarters, Meander Plantation

Thanksgiving Trip – Monticello, Montpelier and Meander Plantation, Virginia – Part 1

I know- this was a terribly long time to wait to do something with these images – Thanksgiving was November of last year. No excuses will be offered. My parents and I have a tradition of going somewhere within a reasonable driving distance of home every year over the Thanksgiving holiday weekend, usually anchored around visiting house museums. It started a couple years ago going to the Hagley Museum outside Wilmington, Delaware, and the Barnes Collection. Another year we went to see The Oatlands plantation outside Leesburg, Virginia. This trip we went to Charlottesville, Virginia to see Monticello, Thomas Jefferson’s home, and Montpelier, James Madison’s home. We stayed a few miles away in a plantation home turned inn, Meander Plantation.

Montpelier:

Home of James Madison, the fourth President of the United States. He drafted the Bill of Rights (the first ten amendments to the Constitution) from Montpelier. Like so many southern gentleman plantation owners, he was better at spending money than making it or managing his estate, so when he died, his wife was left with massive debts that she could little afford to pay, so she ended up having to sell off the lands and eventually the house as well. In the 20th century, Marion Scott Dupont owned the house, which had grown to quite a large edifice with 55 rooms. She bequeathed the house to the National Trust for Historic Preservation upon her death in 1983. In 2003, an effort was begun to return the house to the 22 rooms of James Madison’s time – the restoration was completed in 2008. Today, due to the trials and tribulations of time, the house is largely comprised of empty rooms, with the odd bit of furniture here and there as Madison’s original belongings were sold off and scattered to the four winds nearly two centuries ago. The remaining 2600 acres of the original estate are today devoted to an equestrian center, gardens and agricultural research.

The View from James Madison's Library
The View from James Madison’s Library
The Blue Ridge Mountains, from Montpelier
The Blue Ridge Mountains, from Montpelier
Fence, Approaching the House, Montpelier
Fence, Approaching the House, Montpelier
Fence Detail, Montpelier
Fence Detail, Montpelier
Front Porch, Montpelier, from Madison's Temple
Front Porch, Montpelier, from Madison’s Temple
Madison's Temple
Madison’s Temple

You may be wondering why I’ve not included any images of the full front of the house. They take tour groups through in 10-15 minute intervals, and there were always groups of tourists on the front porch, and/or baby carriages and wheelchairs parked out front that were most un-photogenic.

After touring the house, you can visit the gardens that Marion Scott Dupont installed.

Walled Garden Entrance, Montpelier
Walled Garden Entrance, Montpelier
Garden Lion, Montpelier
Garden Lion, Montpelier

The gardens at that time of year present mostly boxwood hedges that aren’t terribly interesting without getting an aerial view. So you’ll have to suffice with the garden lion for now.

Exit, Walled Garden, Montpelier
Exit, Walled Garden, Montpelier

The return path to the visitor center:

Lane to Visitor's Center, Montpelier
Lane to Visitor’s Center, Montpelier

The Duponts had a private rail line that came to Montpelier as Marion Scott Dupont’s father, William Dupont, worked in Washington DC and wanted to have easy access to work and home. The rail station still stands and is now a civil rights museum. Across the street is a well-preserved Esso station from the 1920s.

Montpelier Esso Station
Montpelier Esso Station

More Italian Stereoviews

Displayed in order of oldest to newest:

On the Grand Canal, Venice
On the Grand Canal, Venice

This one probably dates from the 1860s/early 1870s based on the plain style of the card and the condition of the albumen print(s). No label on front or back, but a hand-written note in Italian stating “Palazzo Cavalli”

The Arch of Constantine, Rome
The Arch of Constantine, Rome

This one is still probably 19th century, but 1880s-1890s. American made.

The Piazza della Signoria, Firenze
The Piazza della Signoria, Firenze

Most likely between 1900-1910. This one fascinated me because I’ve actually been there! It was neat to see how the Piazza looked over 100 years ago.

Venus of Canova, Firenze
Venus of Canova, Firenze

This one came along for the ride in the batch of stereoviews. I’m not sure if this Venus resides in the Bargello or the Accademia.

Italian Stereoviews (or at least stereoviews of Italy)

Milan Cathedral
Milan Cathedral
The Vatican Library
The Vatican Library
Castel Sant Angelo
Castel Sant Angelo

The first one is actually a French stereoview, and is definitely the oldest of the three – could be as early as the 1860s, but more likely 1870s. The Vatican Library is an Underwood & Underwood from 1903. The Castel Sant’Angelo is also an Underwood, and it is dated 1897.

Stereoviews of China, circa 1900-1905

Here are three stereoviews of China, taken in the first half-decade of the 20th century. These were produced by Keystone and Underwood & Underwood, two of the biggest producers of stereoviews. They both churned out thousands of these cards as fast as they could be supplied with new images of exotic locales, exotic being very broadly defined. This was foreign travel on the cheap, when it was not only more expensive but more time-consuming and more dangerous. The stereoview both broadened the horizons of their consumer and reinforced existing stereotypes of the day – note that the crowd on the steps in the rice paddy is “jeering natives” – they’re probably all wondering what that idiot gweiloh (white man) is doing putting his head under a blanket on the back of that funny box on the hill across the way.

Rice Paddies, Kiangsi
Rice Paddies, Kiangsi
Ningpo Guild Hall
Ningpo Guild Hall
The Great Wall of China, Nankow Pass
The Great Wall of China, Nankow Pass

Antique Affinity

Trolling around on eBay (something I do WAY too much of), I came across this group of CDVs. They represent a form of travelogue by an American in the 1860s, bopping around Europe during and after the Civil War. How do I know he (assuming the gender here) was an American? The way he writes the dates – July 16, 1864 – is the Yankee way of writing dates – had it been a European, the date would have been 16 July 1864. I felt compelled to buy them because not only did I feel an affinity for this person’s being an American in foreign countries, but I had been to several of the same places. There were more images that I could have bought, but good fiscal sense called me back from the brink and I chose only those images from places I had been to (or at least near).

In chronological order-

AllowayKirk, Ayr, Scotland, July 16, 1864
AllowayKirk, Ayr, Scotland, July 16, 1864

I love how C.R. (the collector of these images) wrote his notes on the back – the haunted church with the pews that had the wood reclaimed to sell as souvenirs. I’ve not been to Scotland yet, but when I was a teenager, I spent a month with my parents living in London, and we took an extended driving trip through Wales, so I’ve seen many a ruin like this on the side of a winding country road.

Palazzo Diamanti, Ferrara, December 29, 1864
Palazzo Diamanti, Ferrara, December 29, 1864

Now we’re off to Italy, and the Palazzo Diamanti in Ferrara. I’ve not been to Ferrara myself yet, but I have been to Italy twice, and I loved the inclusion of people in the photo for scale, and for the fact that they’re pretty sharp and clear, something not easy to achieve when shooting wet plate collodion images of subjects who don’t know they need to sit still.

The Cathedral of Pisa, January 1865
The Cathedral of Pisa, January 1865

The world famous Cathedral of Pisa, from a less famous view. Most images of the Cathedral show it from the bell tower side. You can see the cathedral and the tower from the rail station at Pisa, where I changed trains en route from Genoa to Florence. C.R.’s note: ” ‘Cathedral and leaning tower’ at Pisa, with a small part of the Baptistery”.

Villa Pallavicini, Genoa, November 25, 1867
Villa Pallavicini, Genoa, November 25, 1867

A sight I missed out on in Genoa when I was there. The Villa Pallavicini is now home to the Archaeological Museum, and the gardens are open to the public as well. The scan on eBay did not do the image justice – the original card is in pristine condition, minus the pin-hole. The albumen print is incredibly sharp and clear, with minimal discoloration and foxing.

Genova Cathedral, 1868
Genova Cathedral, 1868

And here we come to the image that started my interest in this set – the “old” cathedral of Genoa. When I went to Genoa, I stayed with a friend of mine who lives all of six blocks from the cathedral, so it was a daily sight on our excursions. On this one, C.R. is rather terse, simply noting “Cathedral of Genoa”, his initials, and the year, 1868. This is another card in the group that is far better than the scan would suggest. Truly pristine.

The great and the sad thing about these cards is that they again provoke my personal wanderlust, and I’ve got a serious itch to hit the road to Italy again. And to Scotland for the first time, and to half a dozen other places! I’d love to bring one of my big cameras, say my 5×7 or the whole plate camera, and try and re-create these same images, or at the very least capture some very modern interpretations of the same scenes as they would be found today. NOT like the recent Annie Liebowitz show of her super-privileged travel photos of famous people’s homes (Freud’s office, Eleanor Roosevelt’s bedroom in ways you and I could NEVER photograph them).