Paris in October – part 6 – transportation – Planes and Trains

Whenever you travel, of course it involves transportation. I suppose I could call this post “trains, planes and automobiles”, although cars were the least feature of this trip for me. Starting off with planes, the return flight from Paris was on an Air France Airbus A380. I had wanted to see what one was like since they were announced back in the late 1990s. Thanks to my dad splurging on our plane tickets, we had seats in the premium economy section, which put us on the upper deck of the plane. Perhaps because of its size, the A380 was the smoothest riding plane I can recall flying in.

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Here it is at the gate at Charles De Gaulle airport.

One other neat feature of the plane is that in the entertainment console in the headrest, one option is to view the tail cam. They have a camera somewhere near the top of the tail rudder that has a view of the aircraft and the landscape below it. Here it is, on the approach to Dulles International Airport:

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Most of my travels within France were train based. I took the Metro within Paris, a commuter train to Versailles, and a TGV to Chalon. The TGV to Chalon was not the famous super-fast train that goes to Marseilles in 3 hours, but nonetheless, it’s a fast, smooth, quiet train that pivots as it goes around curves.

Paris Metro scenes:

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The Monnaie station (the Mint) had these large ceramic replica coins flowing up the wall, over the ceiling and on to the wall of the opposite platform. The platform also had this giant antique coin press on display:
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I wish they would do things like that here in the Washington DC metro.

Here’s a take on the same station in black-and-white.

Paris Metro-Pont Neuf
Paris Metro-Pont Neuf

And another view of the Metro in motion:

Speeding Metro
Speeding Metro

I took a TGV from Paris to Chalon-sur-Saone to go visit the home of Nicephore Niepce, the original inventor of photography. To say that my train trip was an adventure would be fairly accurate – my first train, which was supposed to take me directly to Chalon, instead took me to Besancon, which is a scant 60km from the Swiss border. I had to take three more trains to end up in Chalon, two and a half hours after I was supposed to arrive there.

It all worked out ok in the end, and the return trip was far less adventurous. Here is the Gare D’ Lyon, my starting (and ending) point in Paris:

TGV, Gare D' Lyon
TGV, Gare D’ Lyon

Clocks, Platform, Gare D' Lyon
Clocks, Platform, Gare D’ Lyon

Paris in October – part 5 – more Versailles

Here are more images from Versailles, these from the town, not just the palace.

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These were from a pair of antique shops in the town. The first one specialized in architectural antiques, the other in books and clocks. There was a pair of antique enlargers in the bookstore, along with some really neat clocks. The tall clock was actually complete, and the price was very reasonable (around 200 euros), but of course shipping it home would have cost more than the clock was worth when restored!

Paris in October – part 4 – Versailles

I’m very ambivalent about Versailles. I’m glad I went to see it but given what I know now, there are better times to go, like the dead of winter on a weekday, not a Sunday in tourist season. There were so many people it was all you could do to peek at the various rooms, let alone actually read the signage or look at anything in depth.

Tourists as a class are becoming more and more obnoxious especially with the advent of camera-enabled mobile devices. Phones are bad enough, but really, could you think for a moment about the effect on everyone else trying to see something when you hold your iPad over your head to take a picture?? Or even when you increase your cubic volume by splaying your elbows out to steady it while composing??? It’s beyond narcissistic.

Anyway… To find a bright spot in that cloud, the difficulty in photographing whole rooms made me pay attention to details in the main spaces, like window levers and curtain hooks.

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Here are a couple of shots of the hall of mirrors. It was so crowded that it was hard to photograph, aggravated by the aforementioned phones and tablets being hoisted aloft to see over the crowd. So I photographed the chandeliers instead.

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Clocks and Beds at Versailles:

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Some of the guest apartments at Versailles:

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Paris in October – part 3: Food Porn

In part one, I mentioned the orgy of great food I had. Here is proof of the deliciousness to be found in Paris and Chalon-sur-Saone, and nary a Michelin star in sight (or the accompanying heart-stopping bill).
Endive salad, and roasted whole fish:

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French onion soup and Coq au Vin:

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Salmon in a cream broth with potato purée topped with pesto, and brownies with pistachio crumbles and sauce:

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The dining room at the Musee D’Orsay where I ate the aforementioned salmon and brownies:

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Endive salad with raw white mushrooms, sautéed onions with sweet red peppers, sprinkled with crumbled egg yolk, grilled pork with a pumpkin casserole topped with a cream sauce and gruyere cheese, and the wildest eclair you’ve ever seen:

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The above was from the dining room at the Hotel St. Georges in Chalon-sur-Saone, the birthplace of photography (thus my reason for going there). I can highly recommend the St. Georges hotel and their restaurant- the rooms were brand new, sparkling clean, the service was friendly and impeccable, and the dining room was one of the best restaurants I ate at on the entire trip.

The dining room:

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More food:

Boeuf Bourguinon:

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Lunch at the take-away counter at Versailles. A ham sandwich and an eclair:
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Charcuterie plate:

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Steak with potatoes and greens:
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Bananas with creme anglaise and powdered cocoa:

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Green salad and grilled lamb chops with pumpkin purée:
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The only quibble I have with the French is that they seem to have no idea whatever of what to do with pasta. The noodles in the boeuf Bourguinon were way past al dente and somewhere between soft and dissolved. I grabbed a veal Milanese for lunch which was perfectly cooked and delicious, but the pasta side that came with was bare of sauce (a very small cup of marinara was provided to dip the cutlet in) or even butter! It was like, “we know there’s supposed to be pasta with Italian food, but we don’t know what to do with it, so we’ll just stick it over there and hope nobody notices”.

And last but not least, the humble hot dog. The French manage to elevate one of the most humble of foods into gourmet territory by putting it in a baguette slathered with Dijon mustard and topping it with melted cheese.

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Paris in October, part 2

Having a slow news day at the office, I thought I’d post some of the stuff from my iPhone that I shot in Paris. Here’s a very short video clip I took of a fire spinner in front of Notre Dame cathedral using fireworks as part of his act.

Paris in October – Part 1

My apologies for the very long delay in writing. Did you all miss me? Part of it was just a general busy-ness and part of it was that I was traveling to Paris for ten days, then waiting for my color film to come back from the lab, and processing and scanning my black-and-white work. Paris was a blast – I have to say it was an orgy of great food – I did not have a single bad meal, or even a humdrum one, in the entire 10 days. Well, ok, the breakfast at the airport on the day of the return flight was, well, airport food, but that doesn’t really count. I’d say the meals on Air France made up for it. I’ll save the rest of the food chat for another post – I took pictures of most of my meals.

I took only one camera with me on this trip, the Rolleiflex. It has only one focal length, and is entirely manual. I know to some folks, shooting their entire vacation with a normal lens would be heresy. I found that in actuality, there were perhaps a half-dozen photos that I took that in retrospect would have been better with a different focal length, and another half-dozen to ten that I didn’t take because they wouldn’t work with the focal length I had. This out of almost 400 frames (33 rolls of 120, 12 frames/roll). I kept my film palette largely restricted to two films – Kodak Ektar 100 for color (with two exceptions) and Tri-X for black-and-white. I did make the mistake of dragging along with me a whole bunch of additional film that I didn’t need to bring (way too much alternative black-and-white film, like some Ilford Pan-F and FP4+). The color exceptions were some Portra 160 for long night-time exposures and some Portra 800 for low-light where I could only hand-hold the camera.

I’ll start this series of posts off with a pair of highlights: the Eiffel Tower and Notre Dame Cathedral.

The Eiffel Tower:

Eiffel Tower Shadow, Clouds
Eiffel Tower Shadow, Clouds

This was a happy catch. I saw the shadow of the tower and the clouds passing overhead reflected in the glass of the security partition for the queue to enter the Eiffel Tower. I took a chance that it would work, and voila! (Tish, that’s French!!!) I was afraid that it would come out fuzzy because I was trying to focus on two different things that were not actually on the plane where they appeared (the security glass partition) and the color balance would be impossible to get right because the anti-shatter coatings on the glass created a bit of a prismatic effect. There’s still a touch of yellow in the clouds I couldn’t eliminate but otherwise it wasn’t too bad.

Here’s a shot of Notre Dame Cathedral, taken from a different perspective.

Towers, Notre Dame Cathedral
Towers, Notre Dame Cathedral

Notre Dame is actually a challenge to photograph because it has a very direct east-west orientation, so for much of the day, the facade that you want to see represented is facing west and in shadow/backlit. I was able to time this photo in the late afternoon so it was well illuminated.

The Rollei made for a perfect travel camera – phenomenal image quality, very easy to handle, and because it is so quiet (no mirror slap, the leaf shutter just makes a little ‘snick’ when it fires) it is great for candids. Thinking of which, I did grab a couple portraits of friends of mine who came over from London to visit. They recently moved there from Singapore. The last time we saw each other in person was 2003, so almost exactly a decade apart. Gosh have we all changed, but it was so great to see them again.

Mirza and Peter
Mirza and Peter
Mirza, Cafe Le Progrès
Mirza, Cafe Le Progrès
Peter, Profile, Blvd St. Martin
Peter, Profile, Blvd St. Martin

Three from the RenFest

I’ve been a long-time fan of the Maryland Renaissance Festival, from back in the day when they held it in the woods near Merriweather Post Pavilion in Columbia, Maryland. I think the first time I went I was perhaps 10, and I tried to participate in the Human Chess game, but I wasn’t quite strong enough to hold the pole with my chess piece on top for too terribly long in the hot sun, and I almost conked someone on the head with it when I lost my grip and it started to fall over. I was quickly captured and removed from the board anyway, so it didn’t matter, but I was a very frustrated 10 year old.

I try to make it at least once a year now, if not more. I get my Halloween outfits at the RenFest (new one debuting this fall, complete with red velvet tights with codpiece and a white shirt with puffy sleeves … I know, for some of you TMI). Anyway, the current RenFest is held near Annapolis in a permanent facility complete with jousting arena, multiple stages, and a series of shops and food vending stalls. It’s a great place to bring the kids for a day, and to indulge your inner childlike (and not-so-childlike) fantasies as an adult. Where else can you go and play dress-up as a naughty knight or bawdy tavern wench (as appropriate to your persuasions), talk like Shakespeare (or a pirate), and nobody will bat an eye at you (or maybe they’ll even compliment you for it!)? And you get to watch craftspeople do ironwork, leather, weaving and glass blowing. Here are a trio of folks plying their theatrical trade at the RenFest:

The Baby
The Baby
Fairy on Stilts
Fairy on Stilts
Blowing Bubbles
Blowing Bubbles

More Street Photos, In The Neighborhood

I was out walking around in the late afternoon and found these. I like the simple graphic compositions they inspired, combined with the long shadows being cast. They’re remnants of the old industrial component of the neighborhood that is quickly being usurped by gentrification.

Air Conditioner Cage, V Street
Air Conditioner Cage, V Street
Gas Meter, Red Wall, V Street
Gas Meter, Red Wall, V Street

Two New Circus Freaks – Fat Man, and Little Boy Comedic Sketch

Pardon the completely coincidental and generally inappropriate reference to the first two atomic bombs. Today for your viewing pleasure we have Frank Williams, professional sideshow fat man, who according to his bio data on the back of the CDV weighed in at 487 lbs at just 18 years of age.

Frank Williams
Frank Williams

According to the Circus Historical Society, he was touring with the King & Franklin New Colossal Shows and Great Wild West in 1888-1890 as part of their sideshow. On a side note, in doing some quick research on Frank, I saw a lot of threads pop up using an image of Frank to start a nasty, snarky discussion of modern-day obesity. It may be true that there are more obese people today than there were 120 years ago, but it’s no excuse for nastiness to those alive today or those long dead. To me it’s victimizing Frank as a sideshow freak all over again, but I wonder how he’d feel about it as exhibition as a sideshow freak was his chosen profession.

Next up, a more pleasant note, is an anonymous CDV of a little person in policeman’s costume with a gigantic fake mustache escorting a pretty girl in a frilly dress. Nothing more is known about it, as there is nothing on the verso either printed to identify the photographer or handwritten to identify the subjects.

Anonymous Little Person and Girl
Anonymous Little Person and Girl

Major Ray and Wife, Cabinet Card

Yet another in my collection of circus freaks from the late 19th Century. In this scan of the card I’ve deliberately tweaked the scan of the back of the card to make the imprinting more readable. You’ve got to love the fact that their ages were left blank, to be penciled in, but their height and weight were printed. It makes me very suspicious of all three figures – Victorian-era circuses were known for intentionally over/under-stating data to make their particular freaks seem all the more extreme as a draw to customers. “Barnum’s fat man weighed 325 lbs! Ours weighs 450!” when in reality Barnum’s fat man was 275 and theirs just breaks 280. Ditto for giants – many of the circus giants were described as being somewhere between seven and eight feet, when in fact they were a bit north of 6’6″. It would have been hard for the average Victorian to gauge, as they often were paired on stage with little people, and the average height in 1870 was around five feet six inches, as opposed to five feet 10 today, so someone standing six feet nine would have looked even taller. Tom Thumb’s height bounced around in official descriptions of the time as well, frequently knocking three to six inches off his actual height (at his passing at age 45, he was 3 feet 4 inches tall).

Major Ray and Wife, by Wendt
Major Ray and Wife, by Wendt

Frank Wendt was the successor to Charles Eisenmann, taking over Eisenmann’s studio in 1893 upon his death, and running it in New York City until 1898, when he moved to New Jersey. Wendt is best known for photographing circus freaks, but he also worked with the general theatrical trade and more mainstream portrait customers as well. For more information about Wendt, check out Frank Wendt Photographs: The Wondrous World of Frank Wendt

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